Scratching is a normal behavior
in cats. Cats have scent glands in their feet and when they scratch, they
not only sharpen their claws, but they mark scent as well. Cats will also
scratch before, during and after play; after awaking to get a good "stretch"
and when protecting themselves from animals or humans which they find
threatening.
Outdoors a cat will use a favorite
scratching area, usually a particular tree. It will return to this tree
both from habit as well as to freshen its scent, very similar to the male
dog who routinely lifts his leg on the same tree or in the same spot every
morning. Unfortunately, the cat's favorite spot may not be appropriate
to you. For example, his favorite scratching spot may be your stereo speakers,
leather sofa or your curtains. The longer your cat has used this favorite
site as his scratching post, the more difficult it may be to retrain him.
Time and patience are the key.
You should not punish the cat
for scratching in undesirable areas. Punishment will only teach the cat
to mistrust you or not to scratch in the area when you are present. It
can also make the problem worse or create other bad behaviors, such as
urine marking. There are two steps to redirecting the cat to an appropriate
scratching post. First, make the cat's scratching area unappealing to
him. For example, if your cat enjoys sharpening his claws on your sofa,
cover the area with aluminum foil, plastic wrap or cheese cloth so the
area becomes less desirable. You can also use repellent sprays(citrus
or menthol scented) which have an offensive odor to cats, but will not
harm your furniture. Prior to spraying, you must remove the cat's scent
by shampooing the area. It may take a few tries before you find what deterrent
will work with your cat. Another method of discouraging your cat from
using an inappropriate scratching area is to booby trap the site. Fill
an empty soda can with a few pennies and tie a piece of string to the
can. Tack the string across the scratching area. When the cat scratches,
the can will fall on the cat. Most cats will never return to that area
again. To ensure that they do not, keep the trap up for at least a week
or two to reinforce the negative result.
The first step only discourages
the cat from scratching in particular areas. Now, you must teach kitty
where it can scratch. It is very rare that a cat will just approach a
store-bought scratching post and know that this is where the owner wants
it to scratch. You must take time to teach him to use it.
Never force your cat to use
the post. If you do this, the cat will only associate the post with something
unpleasant. Cats do not like to be forced to do anything: instead, entice
the cat by having positive things occur near the scratching post. There
are several ways to get your cat interested in the post. If your cat likes
catnip, rub some on the post and place come special treats at varying
levels of the post for rewards. Feeding your cat near the post will often
spark interest in the post. Lure your cat to the post and have the cat
chase an object on a string up the post. Once the cat feels the material
and begins to scratch, reward it with a special treat and praise. Always
keep the scratching post in an area where your cat usually sleeps. Cats
usually stretch upon awakening and will look for a desirable area to scratch.
If the post is nearby, the cat will learn to use this post as a stretching
zone.
The scratching post must be
long enough (three feet or more) for your cat to stretch on. It must also
be sturdy so it does not teeter when the cat begins to scratch. Sometimes
it is necessary to have a variety of posts with different surfaces scattered
around the house in order to find one which your cat enjoys. This is less
expensive in the long run that replacing your furniture, carpets and draperies.
If you have made every attempt
to teach kitty to scratch in appropriate areas, but have been unsuccessful,
a short-term solution is to use commercially made plastic claw covers
that are glued on to cover the nails. These do not provide a long-term
solution and cannot be left on the cat forever. Rather than giving your
cat up or even worse, euthanizing him, you may have to consider declawing.
While the procedure is temporarily painful, research has shown that there
are no long-term behavior problems associated with declawed cats. The
cat will need to be put under anesthesia for the surgery but the procedure
seldom has complications. A declawed cat should never be allowed outdoors.
Declawed cats will often climb trees, but their ability to protect themselves
from harmful threats is diminished.
The key is to begin training
early. You must be consistent, patient and careful not to become angry
or frustrated. If you cannot supervise your kitten or cat during this
process, restriction to one room is mandatory. Freedom is earned when
the cat proves itself to be reliable to follow the rules throughout the
house. Putting the time in to teach your cat what is expected of him will
give you great rewards.