INCREASING TRAINING MOTIVATION 

By Anne Paul

 One of the most frequent questions students ask me is "How can I increase my dog's training motivation?"—often worded as "How can I get my dog to go faster?"  In responding to this common question, consider these factors: 

1.      Consider your dog’s personality and work style.  Not every dog can race around like a Border Collie!  Be realistic in setting goals as to how quickly you wish your dog to work.  If your goals are unrealistic, you will be disappointed.  Think about what your dog is truly capable of doing and work accordingly. 

2.      Consider your personality and work style.  YOUR DOG’S ENERGY IN TRAINING WILL REFLECT YOUR OWN.  Are you a naturally high energy, exciting, dynamic trainer?  Not every handler can race around like a Border Collie!  If you are a relatively quiet, mellow, slower-moving handler, your dog will likely reflect that work style.  Of course, this is something you can consciously work to change if you choose to do so.   

I worked very hard to increase my training energy level when I began working with [noted trainer] Terri Arnold.  My “training personality” is quite unlike me!  When you are training, are you hot and sweating?  I am.  When you are done, do you feel like you just worked out at the gym?  I do.  If you haven’t broken a sweat then it is doubtful your dog has either. 

3.      Consider thoroughly integrating play and work.  Play is a great motivator, especially for a dog with a naturally strong play drive.  Most dogs love to play–once the handler learns how to play!  You can play any game your dog enjoys as long as he is playing with you.  The interactive focus we strive to achieve and maintain in training includes both work and play.  Play with your dog so that you are the primary object of your dog’s interest and fun.  We want intense, active interaction between both of you.   

Integrate play and training.  Play and training should be so integrated that they are actually difficult to distinguish.  Transitions are made very quickly. Release from an exercise to immediate play and then play directly back to the next exercise.  The motivation and energy you generate during play should go right into the training.

 To increase your dog’s desire to play with a toy, try one of these ideas.  First, hold your dog back by his collar, throw the toy, and then race him for it.  If you get there first, you win!  Second, hold the toy and push your dog away from you, telling him “it’s mine!” in a fun way.  Then run away from your dog, letting him chase you and the toy.  Third, parade around holding the toy high as if it is your most valued possession. Dogs always want what they can’t have!  When your dog gets the toy, cheer him on and make him feel happy and proud!   These games work wonders in getting a reluctant dog to want to play with you.

4.      Increase enthusiasm by teaching your dog to bark during training.  Encourage your dog to express himself vocally.  Barking serves as an emotional release.  This is natural.  When a wolf pack gathers before a hunt, they vocalize together.  This unifies the group and gets them excited for the hunt.  Getting your dog to bark before and during training will charge him up!  A good bark is a great reward for a job well done. 

Barking can also serve as an emotional release during a very difficult training exercise.  Any time you notice your dog is a little stressed, stop for a bark session.  Barking lets him release his emotions and gives him an energy boost.  The worst thing is for your dog to internalize his emotions as this can cause him to shut down and become withdrawn and depressed.  Imagine if you were owned by another species that spoke a different language.  Your owner wants you to do all kinds of things for him, but you are never allowed to say a word.  How would you feel?  Would you not become withdrawn and detached, probably even depressed?  Let your dog talk!  Teach your dog to speak on command and you can bring out motivational barking at any time.  Of course, be sure to teach “quiet!” at the same time!  (Teaching a dog to speak on command in training does NOT result in a dog who barks all the time at home!)  

5.      When I watch students practice, I can’t help but notice how frequently the dogs are made to do the entire formal exercise, including the front and finish.  This is boringly repetitious for most dogs and decreases their energy and enthusiasm.  There is no variation, no surprise and no fun!  Worse yet, in most cases when the dog returns, the handler “picks on” the front and finish–a jerk here, a push there, a little kick here or a pull there.  How fast would you retrieve if you knew this could happen upon your return?  Try letting that front and finish go more often and, instead, let your dog happily jump up on you. Or, as he approaches, release him to chase you or get his toy. 

There is no need to formally set up at the start of every exercise.  For example, you can go directly from play to heeling without beginning with your dog sitting.  An exercise does not need to be either formal or fun.  For example, you might send your dog for a dumbbell as an informal game but formalize the front when he returns.  Always do random, surprise releases to play at unexpected moments during training.  This keeps your dog guessing! 

6.      Finally, consider how your dog gets into heel position to begin working–the “get close!” command.  This is a critical skill.  How your dog performs sets the tone for whatever follows.  Every exercise in obedience begins with the dog setting up in heel position.  If this is done slowly, inaccurately or without attention, the exercises to follow will probably be done poorly, too.  If it is done quickly, accurately, and with bright attention, the exercises to follow are off to good starts.  You should work very hard to make setting up in heel position fun for your dog.  In training a young dog, I spend many hours making “get close!” one of the greatest games my dog knows!  Here are a few ideas on how to do this, but you should also use your imagination: (1) After your dog gets close have him jump up for a piece of food. (2) Hide a toy in your clothes and after he gets close pull out the toy and play. (3) After he gets close dash away with him chasing you.

A common problem is a handler who gets his dog motivated with play but then loses this enthusiasm when it is time to get the dog into position to work.  Teaching your dog to get close quickly, attentively, and happily after play, and then to be released again to play keeps the motivation going when it is needed the most.

If you want your dog to get close quickly and happily, you must cause him to do it this way.  First, make sure that your attitude and manner are fast and bright.  Second, be sure that your dog is bright and attentive before you tell him to get close.  Third, cause the response to be fast by using quick and motivating pops.  Fourth, follow getting close with fun games.  Make this a priority in your training.  You will be amazed at the benefits you reap when you begin an exercise with a bright and happy dog!

Conclusion

Your ultimate goal in motivation is to create and sustain an energetic and enthusiastic working partnership with your dog.  The source of this energy and enthusiasm must be you!  If you train like a lump on a log then your dog will work like a lump on a log.  But, if you train with vigor and imagination your dog will shine.  Enthusiasm is contagious.  Get out there, laugh and even sweat a little.  See what happens!